what formula did you use to get the dollar per mile? i made a spread sheet a few weeks ago and id like to add that.

would it be total mileage/cost of tire?

Last edited by Matt (2010-01-18 January 18, 2010, 1:11 am)

The math gets interesting from there. Assuming you drive 25,000 miles a year, running a Pilot Power Front instead of a BT016 would save you $186.00, and the Road 2 instead of the BT021 would save $441.00.  So thats an extra $627 in cash just for running Michelins... basicly two complete extra sets of tires per year. So even if you dont like how they get when close to the wear bars, you could always change them early and still be saving money!  Food for thought!

I'm actually quite interested in the 120/65 in the hopes that it is the inherent middle ground... but it will most likely be applied on a bike by bike basis. For instance, my Falco cannnot make full use of a 120/70 michelins edges, there remains almost 1/2" of unused edge, and the resulting profile difference requires more countersteer. The 120/70 Battlax leaves only 1/4" of unused edge, half as much and requires less countersteer due to the more gradually rounded profile.  When I run a 120/60 on the Falco, I clearly run right to the edge, but I do not know if I'm running over or just reaching the edge and it requires no countersteer, sometimes a little push into the corner like the diablos.  Logically, I would assume the 120/65 to be right in the middle, making the most use of the entire surface of the tire at hopefully the most nuetral feel.  Now your F4i seemed to really respond well to the 120/70 on turn in, so perhaps not using the entire surface is less important in order to maintain steering nuetrality.

BTW: I would keep your back tire and swap to a different front tire, perhaps the pilot power. The bt021 is fantastic in the wet, dry and corners under power.  It's only real downfall is related to the excessive amounts of rubber that constantly ballup and peal off the edges.